Trocadore, Eiffel Tower, Montparnasse and La Coupole - Day 3
We were late getting started today. After yesterday's trek in from Epanay, then walking the length of the Champs-Élysées - from the Arc De Triomphe to the Louvre and more - our feet were blistered and we didn't stir until nearly 10.
By the time we'd gathered our belongings, checked out of the Ibis and made it to the Le Marceau Bastille hotel it was nearly 1pm and after 2 by the time we'd departed.
Negotiating our way via the metro to Le Trocadero we were finally able to see the Eiffel Tower up close. You can have no idea how powerful and majestic the tower is until you've been there in person. We all know the shape, but its size dwarves everything for miles around. Just standing in its shadow is awe-inspiring.
The ironwork of the tower is incredible. Intricate and detailed, it goes beyond pure utilitarianism and is in itself a artistic element of the tower.
We queued for nearly an hour for the lift. For 11.50 Euros, you can catch it all the way to the top, changing lifts on the second floor.
As you step into the bottom floor staging area there are these three massive ballasts which move as the lift ascends and descends - I assume providing the power for the lift. The first stage is more like a funicular, a multi-carriage angled lift capable of carrying around 50 people. The second is more traditional, but both ascend the tower at an incredible rate.
The view is also unbelievable. Paris is a spectacular city, beautiful, dense and vibrant, its suburbs and outer regions stretch to the horizon. Monuments and rich historical buildings litter the view so completely that there is a 360 degree info-panel running below the window on the top floor to ensure you know what you're seeing.
The perspective is intense. I don't really get vertigo per se, but Jus is particularly susceptible. It didn't help that the wind was very strong and the gusts caused the platform to tremor alarmingly. No wonder they close it in strong weather conditions. Initially a little freaked out, the view finally got the better of her and Jus was eventually as entranced as myself.
It was extremely crowded up there - nearly 30 minutes just to get to the lift back down.
But if you go to Paris, you have to do the Eiffel tower.
We then walked through a massive stretch of parklands, the Champ De Mars, were happy couples reclined picnicking in that Parisian way we saw yesterday and through some open air festival in honour of the summer solstice - today, June 21.
We were on our way to dinner at La Coupole at Montparnasse, again a recommendation from Pierre Yves.
La Coupole (the cupola) has a rich history, and this year celebrates the 80th anniversary of its opening. In rich Parisian style, it features an art-deco style, frescoed columns and an impressive past clientele - Picasso and Hemingway among them. It's the largest dining room in France, seating 450 diners yet still managing to feel intimate. Service was also spectacular. We both just felt so special there - particularly since we weren't expecting anything this lush.
So, to dinner:
For entrée's Jus had a half dozen of the biggest damn oysters you've ever seen. These were Gillardeau Nos 1, available in only two restaurants in Paris and La Coupole is famous for them. At least 3 times the size of the largest oyster I've ever seen, by themselves they were a feast. In addition to serving them with slices of lemon, there was a little vinaigrette infused with shallot which was apparently a great choice of light dressing. Jus absolutely loved them. I'm not a big oyster fan and the thought of eating even on of those monsters au naturale, the only way they're served, left me green. My little crab something or other was nice enough and washed down with a light little champagne. One of the little niceties of being in France is that good champagne is easy to come by.
For mains, I had Coeur de filet de boeuf au poivre "flambé au cognac", pommes sautées: pepper beef and sautéed potatoes - the beef was set on fire with cognac - they got me up to do it myself, something I was thrilled to do - and it was possibly the best beef I've ever had. Jus' Entrécote Charolaise grillée, gratin dauphinois was a massive slab of grilled beef with a potato gratin - apparently nice, but not spectacular.
Our bottle of wine again showed just what the French can do with a red - a Bordeaux (we've had nothing else in France), Chateau Teyssier 2003 - was rich, full bodied and with a nice bite. That said, I can see why our Australian wines are competing so strongly overseas. This was not a cheap bottle and I feel that some of our own reds stack up quite nicely at half the price.
Another nice touch at La Coupole is that if a reservation is made for a birthday, the lights are dimmed and the entire staff will bring out your cake and sing "happy birthday" to you to the applause of 450 of your fellow diners. We saw that happen twice, which was when we figured out what Pierre Yves cryptic addition to our evening's itinerary meant: "prevenair si anniversaire". Cheeky bugger.
We staggered home after a dash of ice-cream and espresso, through the lively streets of Montparnasse. Whether it's always like this or the festive spirit was just due to the solstice, I don't know, but the entire street had what seemed like many great restaurants and a lively New Orleans type-feel. Across the road as we left was a jazz band entertaining the entire street. You don't see wrap-around tubas (or whatever they're called) very often, but tonight I wouldn't be surprised by much.
Even in our area of the Bastille, the night is alive with revelry - tho again, I can't say if that's the solstice or just the Parisian way!
Too tired to post photos, will get to them when I can.
By the time we'd gathered our belongings, checked out of the Ibis and made it to the Le Marceau Bastille hotel it was nearly 1pm and after 2 by the time we'd departed.
Negotiating our way via the metro to Le Trocadero we were finally able to see the Eiffel Tower up close. You can have no idea how powerful and majestic the tower is until you've been there in person. We all know the shape, but its size dwarves everything for miles around. Just standing in its shadow is awe-inspiring.
The ironwork of the tower is incredible. Intricate and detailed, it goes beyond pure utilitarianism and is in itself a artistic element of the tower.
We queued for nearly an hour for the lift. For 11.50 Euros, you can catch it all the way to the top, changing lifts on the second floor.
As you step into the bottom floor staging area there are these three massive ballasts which move as the lift ascends and descends - I assume providing the power for the lift. The first stage is more like a funicular, a multi-carriage angled lift capable of carrying around 50 people. The second is more traditional, but both ascend the tower at an incredible rate.
The view is also unbelievable. Paris is a spectacular city, beautiful, dense and vibrant, its suburbs and outer regions stretch to the horizon. Monuments and rich historical buildings litter the view so completely that there is a 360 degree info-panel running below the window on the top floor to ensure you know what you're seeing.
The perspective is intense. I don't really get vertigo per se, but Jus is particularly susceptible. It didn't help that the wind was very strong and the gusts caused the platform to tremor alarmingly. No wonder they close it in strong weather conditions. Initially a little freaked out, the view finally got the better of her and Jus was eventually as entranced as myself.
It was extremely crowded up there - nearly 30 minutes just to get to the lift back down.
But if you go to Paris, you have to do the Eiffel tower.
We then walked through a massive stretch of parklands, the Champ De Mars, were happy couples reclined picnicking in that Parisian way we saw yesterday and through some open air festival in honour of the summer solstice - today, June 21.
We were on our way to dinner at La Coupole at Montparnasse, again a recommendation from Pierre Yves.
La Coupole (the cupola) has a rich history, and this year celebrates the 80th anniversary of its opening. In rich Parisian style, it features an art-deco style, frescoed columns and an impressive past clientele - Picasso and Hemingway among them. It's the largest dining room in France, seating 450 diners yet still managing to feel intimate. Service was also spectacular. We both just felt so special there - particularly since we weren't expecting anything this lush.
So, to dinner:
For entrée's Jus had a half dozen of the biggest damn oysters you've ever seen. These were Gillardeau Nos 1, available in only two restaurants in Paris and La Coupole is famous for them. At least 3 times the size of the largest oyster I've ever seen, by themselves they were a feast. In addition to serving them with slices of lemon, there was a little vinaigrette infused with shallot which was apparently a great choice of light dressing. Jus absolutely loved them. I'm not a big oyster fan and the thought of eating even on of those monsters au naturale, the only way they're served, left me green. My little crab something or other was nice enough and washed down with a light little champagne. One of the little niceties of being in France is that good champagne is easy to come by.
For mains, I had Coeur de filet de boeuf au poivre "flambé au cognac", pommes sautées: pepper beef and sautéed potatoes - the beef was set on fire with cognac - they got me up to do it myself, something I was thrilled to do - and it was possibly the best beef I've ever had. Jus' Entrécote Charolaise grillée, gratin dauphinois was a massive slab of grilled beef with a potato gratin - apparently nice, but not spectacular.
Our bottle of wine again showed just what the French can do with a red - a Bordeaux (we've had nothing else in France), Chateau Teyssier 2003 - was rich, full bodied and with a nice bite. That said, I can see why our Australian wines are competing so strongly overseas. This was not a cheap bottle and I feel that some of our own reds stack up quite nicely at half the price.
Another nice touch at La Coupole is that if a reservation is made for a birthday, the lights are dimmed and the entire staff will bring out your cake and sing "happy birthday" to you to the applause of 450 of your fellow diners. We saw that happen twice, which was when we figured out what Pierre Yves cryptic addition to our evening's itinerary meant: "prevenair si anniversaire". Cheeky bugger.
We staggered home after a dash of ice-cream and espresso, through the lively streets of Montparnasse. Whether it's always like this or the festive spirit was just due to the solstice, I don't know, but the entire street had what seemed like many great restaurants and a lively New Orleans type-feel. Across the road as we left was a jazz band entertaining the entire street. You don't see wrap-around tubas (or whatever they're called) very often, but tonight I wouldn't be surprised by much.
Even in our area of the Bastille, the night is alive with revelry - tho again, I can't say if that's the solstice or just the Parisian way!
Too tired to post photos, will get to them when I can.
posted by Kelsey Brookes at 9:54 am
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